AN Size Information AN Measurements are very simple to figure out. You take an AN designation, put it over 16 in a fraction form, then reduce the fraction and it gives you the inch size form. Using -4 AN as an example, you put 4 over 16 (4/16), then reduce it.First reduction would be 2/8, […]
Introduction I use an Evo 8 ECU in my 1G and have previously used a 2G Black Box ECU in #VirginMary. I have a lot of experience with ECUflash, EVOscan, and these H8 ECU’s. And, I love them. There aren’t that many people out there that use an EVO 8 ECU in their DSM. Because […]
I am a little motivated to bring you some information on lowering springs and how much of a drop several different brands and types of springs give you. I have been driving my recently purchased Eclipse Spyder GST around with a large amount of wheel gap. I CANNOT fucking stand wheel gap. We all know […]
Though I have yet to build a 2.4L engine using the 4G64 block with the 4G63 head, it has always been a huge interest of mine and is high up on the bucket list. The biggest advantage of running a 2.4L compared to the 2,0L, aside from the obvious increase in displacement, is that you […]
So you’ve gotten yourself a new 1G DSM and you wanna start putting some power to the ground right? I mean why not? You’ve done basic maintenance. Timing belt and water pump, plugs and wires, fresh gaskets and fluids. Good to go right? WRONG! One of the most important aspects of maintenance that is most commonly […]
“The Official Engine Oil of Eat Sleep DSM.” The Brad Penn, Penn 1 High Performance Motor oil, also widely known as “The Green Oil”, has been by far the most amazing oil I have ever used. Once I learned of it and it’s history and background, I have refused to use any other oil in […]
One of the most popular OFH’s (Oil Filter Housings) that a lot of us around the DSM Community use, including myself, is the infamous 1990 externally air cooled 1990 DSM OFH’s. There are a LOT of benefits from using the 1990 OFH and I will do my best to touch on all of them in […]
Turbochargers are positive feedback devices – the faster they spin, the more air they push into the engine. The more air they push into the engine, the more exhaust gases are produced. The more exhaust gases that are produced, and the faster the turbo spins. The faster they spin…. See the problem? The faster they […]
The 2G’s came with a very weird orifice bolted to the bottom of the transmission in factory form. This is called the clutch accumulator. A hydraulic accumulator is a pressure storage reservoir in which a non-compressible hydraulic fluid is held under pressure that is applied by an external source. An accumulator enables a hydraulic system […]
The reasons behind shimming the clutch pivot ball are often misunderstood. Ultimately what you’re doing is correcting the offset geometry of the clutch fork so that it’s optimized for the clutch you are using. When it comes to aftermarket flywheels, clutch discs and pressure plates there tends to be some variance in the final offset […]
The act or process of bleeding your clutch is an extremely useful skill to have. If you know how to bleed your clutch, it can be used in several different ways to help diagnose or fix many things. It is similar to bleeding brakes on a vehicle, but it is slightly more significant and extra […]
From the guys at TRE TORQUE CAPACITY 90-99 AWD DSM: The factory rated the W5M33 89-99 AWD transmission for roughly 250ft.lbs of torque. You can put over 700ft.lbs of torque through our top shelf DSM AWD transmission, these guys have but we don’t expect it to last forever on the OEM gears. It should be […]
Gear Oil Capacities Transmission: 2.4 qrts Transfer Case: 0.5 qrts Rear Differential: 0.9 qrts “DSM, 3S, and EVO transmissions require 2.5-3 quarts of oil. For our DSM / 3S transmission rebuilds, we recommend factory Mitsubishi transmission gear oil. For stock or mildly modified vehicles, you can just use the standard Mitsubishi MTF. For higher hp, tracked, […]
AT Transmission Fluid Recommendation: The fluid is the “blood” of the transmission. There are many different well designed ATF fluids out there that work great in our cars. Pretty much any synthetic ATF will be sufficient. A lot of guys like to use RedLine, Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc. The factory ATF fluid is called Mitsubishi […]
If you are reading this, chances are you are either having a problem with your cooling system, or would like to make it more efficient. Below is a list, both 1G and 2G specific, that can help when making your decision and troubleshooting a failed cooling system. This FAQ focuses on stock-style cooling systems. Your […]
This is one of my favorite mods to do when I first get a 2G with an original 2G 7 bolt engine in it. Most of us have noticed that the design of the water pipe and thermostat housing on a 2G can cause a lot of stress when working with them. If you end […]
Text by AJ Hunsinger // Photos by AJ Hunsinger Tonight, I decided to work on my ignition (timing) maps. I have noticed for awhile now that my car seems to “come to life” and pull harder just before my set rev limiter, which is just over 7000RPM. It seemed kind of odd because I am […]
I am often asked what things can be removed or deleted in order to clean up the engine bay or remove weight. There are literally dozens of things you get get rid of in the engine bay alone, not to mention elsewhere in the car. Removing things that you don’t need or may not even […]
I get asked a lot about how I did my battery relocation. While there are many many different ways you can do it with various amounts of different parts and products, I believe my way is one of the simplest. But, I chose to go the way I did because it worked with my wire […]
A 2G MAF is a very quick, cheap, and easy modification on a 1G. The 2G MAF is much larger than the 1G MAF. The wiring is pretty straight forward but there are two ways you could do this. 1- Hard wire the 2G MAF plug onto the factory 1G wiring but cutting off the […]
