I get asked a lot about how I did my battery relocation. While there are many many different ways you can do it with various amounts of different parts and products, I believe my way is one of the simplest. But, I chose to go the way I did because it worked with my wire tuck and setup nicely.
I would also like to say that my method isn’t necessarily the safest. There are many things you can apply to a battery relocation, such as in-line fuses and circuit breakers, to make the relocation safer. I did not add any of which to my personal relocation.
My battery relocation diagram also uses a kill switch that I mounted on the rear bumper of the car. A kill switch mounted on the rear of the car is commonly used in battery relocations as it is in the NHRA rulebook that any car in competition must have a kill switch on the rear of the car, labelled ON/OFF. This allows track safety officials to easily and quickly kill power to the car after an accident to prevent electrical fires, etc.
I made this diagram prior to actually doing my battery relocation so I had a clear gameplan heading into the relocation. There are, however, two things I ended up doing differently than what is shown in the diagram.
The first thing is the ground wire that runs from the negative terminal on the battery all the way to the front of the car and bolts to the bell housing. I ended up running one ground from the battery to one of my rear strut tower studs and another ground from the bell housing to the firewall. Running a ground wire all the way from the battery to the bell housing is pretty overkill and uses a lot of wire that you don’t really need to be using.
The second thing is the power wire from the fuel pump to the distribution block. I realized it was much easier to just run the fuel pump wire straight to the battery itself.
Now, here is a list of parts/products/material I used:
In-Line 100AMP Fuse
I used 4AWD on the following:
Alternator to Fuse Box
3 Fusible Links (MPI, IGN, RAD) to Distribution Block
Fuse Box to Kill Switch
Distribution Block to Starter
I used 2AWG on the following:
Positive terminal of the battery to the kill switch
Kill switch to the distribution block
Bell housing to firewall ground
Negative terminal to the rear strut tower chassis ground
The 3 factory fusible links (from the factory, mounted on the positive terminal of the battery on a 1G) can be cut off. Then, run each individual wire to an in-line 100AMP fuse. Then from the fuse, run a 4AWG wire to the distribution block.